Prints suddenly stopped working at 2mm Why and is it vref or somethin?

Jonners59 · 2021-02-26 09:36:42

bigfilsing wrote:

You are not the only one >>>> https://www.nanodlp.com/forum/viewtopic.php?id=2976

Sadly not. I think this is a great and powerful system, but it seems to have raced ahead and is not taking stock. A typical IT scenario. Should take time out to go back and review everything. Layout, entries, descriptions... The height thing and time are two notable points. ALmost all slicing apps give and ETA and all do a count down during printing and all are accurate within seconds. But this is meaningless. Pointless even being there it is so inaccurate and changes throughout the print. Sorry, but when slicing it calculates how long each slice takes no matter the setting, therefore the ETA is the sum of each slice. It must know what the ETA is. Same on height. What is the point of all the height settings and readings if it has no idea or control over it. OK, get it is in SKR but it is instructing the SKR and so must know where it is. Why have an absolute top and it not mean anything. It's pointless. As I say, a great system, but needs to be careful it doesn't trip over itself by not reviewing it's achievements.

sinned6915 · 2021-02-26 21:37:04

I think I have added to your threads on Fb.

I dont believe that issues in my thread are the same as yours. I need to update the gcode and settings in my printer config. My settings are so old, that they predate the current nanoDLP feature set. That would be a testatment as to how well the software is written- my stuff is 3+ years old and I have not really touched them but I still get good prints despite the glitches. I have forgotten much of what I did before, I think at this point I need to start from scratch.

Absolute top will trigger a soft endstop. There is a point to it. It should also be set in your controller firmware as well so that despite what nanoDLP might instruct the controller, it wont crash. What did you set it to in your configuration file?

As fas as ETA and print time goes,what exactly are your expectations? Are they reasonable and attainable? The difference of 0.1 sec on a print that is 195mm tall amounts to maybe 6 minutes of a print that takes something like 4+ hours to do. that is like a 1-2% error.

I honestly don't care enough to double check the print times against the real time ticker on the console. Unlike FDM, I set it and forget it and dont care when it gets done. I don't baby sit the printer, I might if I needed to add resin to the var, but most of my stuff just prints. If I do a larger print, I set a reminder in my phone to check on the print at some estimated time increment and go add resin and leave it alone. FWIW, nanoDLP has always finished on time or sooner than I expected.

You seem to be stuck on SKR and dont understand that its hardware, not firmware. SKR is nothing more than a poorly ripped off clone of the original smoothieboard with some 'enhancments' that they threw in becasue the general public was incabable of RTFM'g the docs. Marlin is only one of a bunch of other firmwares that will run on it. RRF and Smoothieware both alternates and much more capable.

I dread upgrading my hardware, and I am going to have to soon I think. RAMPS is a no brainer but I really don't want to put Marlin on it, I will seriosly consider Repetier. If I was going to put an LPC based controller in there, I might do RRF 2.0 for consistency with my other machines.

Last edited by sinned6915 (2021-02-26 21:38:34)

Jonners59 · 2021-02-27 13:33:06

sinned6915 wrote:

I think I have added to your threads on Fb.
I dont believe that issues in my thread are the same as yours. I need to update the gcode and settings in my printer config. My settings are so old, that they predate the current nanoDLP feature set. That would be a testatment as to how well the software is written- my stuff is 3+ years old and I have not really touched them but I still get good prints despite the glitches. I have forgotten much of what I did before, I think at this point I need to start from scratch.
I don't rely on FB, it is rare to get good feedback and support, TBH. Here is better
Typical Linux systems. Go on forever.

sinned6915 wrote:

Absolute top will trigger a soft endstop. There is a point to it. It should also be set in your controller firmware as well so that despite what nanoDLP might instruct the controller, it wont crash. What did you set it to in your configuration file?

No, it just keeps going and that is standard. It May have been different in the old days, but my top is 200, so I set my max at 185 so that it can do the small lift before it goes down. If I set it at 200 it would grind and thump as it tries to go past the top. I set the top by first going to HOME/FLOOR, and adjusting that. Redo HOME/FLOOR, and then take it up 185mm. I then use the "Record Current Height As Axis Height", as one should. That then resets the Height in Machine Settings too. It SHOULD be the max lift point, but as explained to me it isn't/doesn't and can not, which I don't get, but hey ho. I don't even go there now.

Nothing to do with the config file that is the driver for the HDMI, so nothing in there. Unless you tell me otherwise.

Controller (SKR, as in my case) firmware, so I have been told but don't have access to that to change it.

sinned6915 wrote:

As fas as ETA and print time goes,what exactly are your expectations? Are they reasonable and attainable? The difference of 0.1 sec on a print that is 195mm tall amounts to maybe 6 minutes of a print that takes something like 4+ hours to do. that is like a 1-2% error.

Huh ha, if only it was that small a margin. I am talking about HOURS out. It goes up and down and all over, which means I have no idea when a print will finish to plan when to start and when to be there,m and the numbers are confusing. They are not even labelled DD:HH:MM:SS, they are just numbers so could be any combination. OK, as it prints one stats to get an idea very quickly which is which, but it shouldn't be, and it should be 100% accurate. It is an algorithm of the slice and the GCode.

Screenshots of a print

One print, as you can see says in the slice it will take 3hrs 1m and 7.5 secs. It then said it would take 14hrs 49 minutes at the start of the print and an ETA of 8:36 AM, which after a couple of layers changes to 7:20 AM Halfway it says 9hrs and to finish at 16:46 (i.e. 4:16PM), It actually finished at 1:30 AM

What do I want and expect? As you ask. To be within reason an exact time. I do not understand why it is not exact, but, if it said it would take 15hrs and it ended up taking 15hrs and 10 minutes, that's a bit odd it is not more accurate but, at least it is manageable.

sinned6915 wrote:

I honestly don't care enough to double check the print times against the real time ticker on the console. Unlike FDM, I set it and forget it and dont care when it gets done. I don't baby sit the printer, I might if I needed to add resin to the var, but most of my stuff just prints. If I do a larger print, I set a reminder in my phone to check on the print at some estimated time increment and go add resin and leave it alone. FWIW, nanoDLP has always finished on time or sooner than I expected.

I do not like leaving the print dripping in resin for many hours. It dilutes the detail, and my stuff is all about detail and accuracy. I should know when it is going to finish. When I used CWS or CWX or Chiyu, I always knew when and could plan start times, a sequence of prints to start and stop around me, not have no idea at all.

sinned6915 wrote:

You seem to be stuck on SKR and dont understand that its hardware, not firmware. SKR is nothing more than a poorly ripped off clone of the original smoothieboard with some 'enhancments' that they threw in becasue the general public was incabable of RTFM'g the docs. Marlin is only one of a bunch of other firmwares that will run on it. RRF and Smoothieware both alternates and much more capable.

You could be right. I never intended to get this involved in the whole thing. Fortunately, bigfilsing has been bailing me out, very patiently.

sinned6915 wrote:

I dread upgrading my hardware, and I am going to have to soon I think. RAMPS is a no brainer but I really don't want to put Marlin on it, I will seriosly consider Repetier. If I was going to put an LPC based controller in there, I might do RRF 2.0 for consistency with my other machines.

A whole new world for me. I have everything documented so I can refer back and also help others, so they don't suffer my pain. I started in May and still at it, all be it the final dregs. Would like better solutions for these two items, but if there isn't then so be it. I can work my way around the end stop, and as for time/ETA... I guess I shall need to create a spreadsheet and do my own tool. If I can best guess how long each layer takes at each of the layer heights I use for each resin, then I simply use a height of model entry and divide by layer height and multiply by layer end to end time. Minus my 5 initial layers of course, which will be their own entry. That way I should be able to work things out myself. Not ideal or as good as CWX or CWS, but better than nothing.

PS: How does one attach images. This saving to my Drive and then adding a link is a pain. The Attachments here does not allow me to upload anything. Very hard giving examples.

sinned6915 · 2021-02-27 23:16:22

quick reply after scanning your response- i have to run out, but I did not want to leave you hanging.

are you able to use an online sharing service pastebin.com to post files/snippets. then you just add the link to your response and we can get to the text.

1. export your machine settings file from System ->Tools ->Settings to your PC.
copy and paste the contents of that file to pastebin.
if you study it, you can see the syntax and entries in there.

2. Did you compille Marlin and put it on micro-SD card and put that in your SKR>? If so, put your Configurtion.h file on pastebin as well.

The section of interest is the machine definitions - here is mine from 1.1.9x for a 80x80x80 FDM printer, but it does not matter.

3. If you did NOT compile Marlin, and you are using whatever came on the card, then yes, we have no way to really reverse engineer what is on ther. Compiling Marlin is easy enough.
I think it best that you go through that process to tailor it to your machine. Make notes of all the stuff you changed and saved with M500's commands.

4. Z-Axis settings- in nanoDLP, verify that the step angle, usteps, leadscrew pitch and Z-Axis heights are correct. Z-Axis is going to be in the total number of steps and it computes it in the field title. What are those values currently?

Jonners59 · 2021-02-28 12:48:08

sinned6915 wrote:

quick reply after scanning your response- i have to run out, but I did not want to leave you hanging.

FUMMING! Just spent 2hrs replying to you and accidentally closed the wrong tab and lost everything!! GGGRRRR
Thank you for this and your very kind consideration. Very much appreciated.

sinned6915 wrote:

are you able to use an online sharing service pastebin.com to post files/snippets. then you just add the link to your response and we can get to the text.

Yes, that's the problem. All the forums I normally use one uploads the images. Far better as they are visible and all can see them for eternity. It helps others in the same boat. I have 5 x Dropbox, 2 x Box and 4 x Drive. I have been using my personal Drive account for this, but after I have solved my problems I want to delete all these images and unnecessary files to save space. So the blog suddenly becomes useless for others in need of help. Also, an image in line is easier to explain.
This is the link to the shared folder, mostly used to help others but also been using for this blog to help me. I did share it somewhere in all these replies.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/ … sp=sharing

sinned6915 wrote:

1. export your machine settings file from System ->Tools ->Settings to your PC.
copy and paste the contents of that file to pastebin.
if you study it, you can see the syntax and entries in there.

Done that. It is in the Drive directory to view. I back up everything as I go along as well as screenshots. I hadn't tried opening the file before. It was, sort of interesting and I could see all my entries in Machine Settings, which is no surprise.

You can view it too.
3D Printing Shares -> Wanhao D7plus upgrade to nanoDLP file is called MachineSettings.jason
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1RrV2_g … sp=sharing

sinned6915 wrote:

2. Did you compille Marlin and put it on micro-SD card and put that in your SKR>? If so, put your Configurtion.h file on pastebin as well.
The section of interest is the machine definitions - here is mine from 1.1.9x for a 80x80x80 FDM printer, but it does not matter.

Something you probably missed skirting through. As mentioned I did not compile it, only just learning it is called Merlin and the history. I was given the file to load up. The file is already there.
3D Printing Shares -> Wanhao D7plus upgrade to nanoDLP -> SKR Firmare and is called firmware.bin
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HnYQ9E … sp=sharing

sinned6915 wrote:

3. If you did NOT compile Marlin, and you are using whatever came on the card, then yes, we have no way to really reverse engineer what is on ther. Compiling Marlin is easy enough.
I think it best that you go through that process to tailor it to your machine. Make notes of all the stuff you changed and saved with M500's commands.

Yeah, as per did not compile but was given it so sure someone had before me. It is above my paygrade, but happy to try instructions via nanoDLP RAMPS TERMINAL, finished off with M500 :-D If my blog wasn't so long you would have picked that up in the previous replies. It's too long now for a quick read. Please, let me know what to do and I'll have a go.

sinned6915 wrote:

4. Z-Axis settings- in nanoDLP, verify that the step angle, usteps, leadscrew pitch and Z-Axis heights are correct. Z-Axis is going to be in the total number of steps and it computes it in the field title. What are those values currently?

Yup, again, as per previous, I have already done this stuff and happy with it. All on the shared drive FYI.
3D Printing Shares -> Wanhao D7plus upgrade to nanoDLP -> Generic The folder did cover the Generic Machine Settings but also included mine with 4K LCD, new UV array and 0.9 stepper motor.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/ … sp=sharing
Note images:
Display Engine 4k LCD.png
GCode new.png
MachineSettings Z Axis Height 9deg motor 185.png
Slicing for 4k LCD.png
Z Axis Control Information.png
Z-Axis Max.pdf

No matter what, it ignores this information, re max. If I tell it to go up 2 x 200mm it will try to go past the 185mm and the 200mm which is the length of the Z-Axis. There is no stopping it, which is why I ask the question about Max Height. It serves no purpose unless it stops the build plate from exceeding it.

Thanks for all this.

PS: I re-tried the print I mentioned again. Started about 2 hrs earlier in the day, but increased cure time, so was not surprised it said it would complete at 06:30 (AM). As the print progressed that came down. It finished at 17:30 (5:30 PM). It makes the ETA meaningless and unhelpful for planning and organising. I really do not get why it can't get it right. I am no SW engineer and all this is above me, granted, but all the entries are known and repeated, and there are only two variants. Burn-in layer and Normal layer.

Last edited by Jonners59 (2021-02-28 12:52:15)

Jonners59 · 2021-02-28 16:13:00

Here you go... My calc tool for resin printers...

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1W30Fhm … sp=sharing

sinned6915 · 2021-02-28 18:09:57

i know you are trying to make things easier for us to help you, but you are making things a little too complicated.

all your links are protected. places like https://pastebin.com/ and the like are easier to use.

i am not sure how, but you you got pretty lucky in that you got some random stock image of Marlin to work. As you can see, it is NOT at all optimal for your use. You should read some readme's and howtos on configuring Marlin and how to upload the firmware. It sounds worse than it is. you are going to have to use Marlin 2.0 becasue your board is 32bit. @bigfilsing has some notes in a sticky on what to do in 1.1.9 that I think still apply to 2.0.

Here are a couple of vids that might be helpful. Keep in mind that we only need 1 axis of motion system and a couple of endstops and maybe some fan control. Eventually, you can add in things like chamber heaters and what not.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J9vxJT5Tgh4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mtCz_-2zvZo

Luckily, that board is well documented, so the planning is not so bad. Go to BTT's github and look at their documentation there. then decide how you are going to connect/wire things up. Make yourself a pinout map to make your life easier. Here is an example I started for you- but you decide what devices you want to wire to whichever ports/pins.

bigfilsing · 2021-03-01 03:57:48

sinned6915 wrote:

i know you are trying to make things easier for us to help you, but you are making things a little too complicated.
all your links are protected. places like https://pastebin.com/ and the like are easier to use.
i am not sure how, but you you got pretty lucky in that you got some random stock image of Marlin to work. As you can see, it is NOT at all optimal for your use. You should read some readme's and howtos on configuring Marlin and how to upload the firmware. It sounds worse than it is. you are going to have to use Marlin 2.0 becasue your board is 32bit. @bigfilsing has some notes in a sticky on what to do in 1.1.9 that I think still apply to 2.0.
Here are a couple of vids that might be helpful. Keep in mind that we only need 1 axis of motion system and a couple of endstops and maybe some fan control. Eventually, you can add in things like chamber heaters and what not.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J9vxJT5Tgh4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mtCz_-2zvZo
Luckily, that board is well documented, so the planning is not so bad. Go to BTT's github and look at their documentation there. then decide how you are going to connect/wire things up. Make yourself a pinout map to make your life easier. Here is an example I started for you- but you decide what devices you want to wire to whichever ports/pins.
https://i.imgur.com/wekVk7c.png

Hi You need to be a bit careful when posting things please

Your schematic
You have the polarity on the LED the wrong way round !!
you have the polarity of the incoming power the wrong way round !!
If people look at or share the image you posted there will be people blowing up their control boards !!!

Jonners59 · 2021-03-01 11:31:42

bigfilsing wrote:

Hi You need to be a bit careful when posting things please
Your schematic
You have the polarity on the LED the wrong way round !!
you have the polarity of the incoming power the wrong way round !!
If people look at or share the image you posted there will be people blowing up their control boards !!!

Hello, Bigfilsing... :-)
So glad you are about. Thought I had lost you :-(

Sorry for not trying the GCode, but I am struggling here to get certain prints working and this ETA thing isn't helping. Makes planning difficult. The odd thing is I am getting the level of detail that I think I need now with the new motor and LCD, etc - thank you. I say "think" because I have struggled to get the print to work on a live model, though test models have worked and I am getting the best detail ever - YIPEEE. The real test is these models. There are holes and details that have yet to show themselves previously and hoping all this will show them, but they are failing so I do not know. I think it is failing in the supports, so I am beefing them up. That's a side issue comment and my poor excuse for not testing the code you sent. So once I get these babies out I shall test your code and revert.

Also in the image, the power supply is wrong. It needs BOTH terminals connected to 24v DC or it won't work. See my image below and my setup.

sinned6915 wrote:

i know you are trying to make things easier for us to help you, but you are making things a little too complicated.
all your links are protected. places like https://pastebin.com/ and the like are easier to use.

Well, yes, I am, but I don't understand why there is such difficulty with probably the most popular and well-used file sharing platform on the planet - Google's Drive. I have been using it extensively with people of other forums, FB, messenger and in private communications, etc for years. Even on here in the blog, and never had any issues. Sure the best solution is that the forum allows images to be uploaded as others do. It has the facility, but it is turned off.

I have a pastebin account, for about 8 years but never used it. It is for SW/code rather than images and as I don't do any SW never had cause to use it. I am trying to have things in one place so easier to manage and control and also share. Having things dissipated is a nightmare and very bad practice. Anyway, I note you used i.imgur.com, so I have tried that. Hope it meets your approval.

sinned6915 wrote:

i am not sure how, but you you got pretty lucky in that you got some random stock image of Marlin to work. As you can see, it is NOT at all optimal for your use. You should read some readme's and howtos on configuring Marlin and how to upload the firmware. It sounds worse than it is. you are going to have to use Marlin 2.0 becasue your board is 32bit. @bigfilsing has some notes in a sticky on what to do in 1.1.9 that I think still apply to 2.0.
Here are a couple of vids that might be helpful. Keep in mind that we only need 1 axis of motion system and a couple of endstops and maybe some fan control. Eventually, you can add in things like chamber heaters and what not.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J9vxJT5Tgh4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mtCz_-2zvZo
Luckily, that board is well documented, so the planning is not so bad.

I do not think it is stock. I think it was modified by someone else, maybe the person who sent it to me. It has worked fine to now though not perfect - more fan points - as Bigfilsing knows, I love my fans. I have 6 and it runs nice and cool even with a 3 day print at 10um.... (UV on almost constantly).

I'll look at the videos and maybe have a go, but this looks way above my paygrade.

sinned6915 wrote:

Go to BTT's github and look at their documentation there. then decide how you are going to connect/wire things up.

I assume you mean here? https://github.com/bigtreetech

sinned6915 wrote:

Make yourself a pinout map to make your life easier. Here is an example I started for you- but you decide what devices you want to wire to whichever ports/pins.

Already have one of those. Shared here previously, and also on the Drive link I sent. I have repasted below FYI using the image-sharing app you used. Fingers crossed.

This is what I have made and setup.
https://i.imgur.com/vOxMWZn.png
https://i.imgur.com/p6WK7fs.png

FYI: These are the images I posted in my last reply you say you can not see:
https://i.imgur.com/Mg09y9X.png
https://i.imgur.com/b0myNqA.png
https://i.imgur.com/HYZGwyl.png
https://i.imgur.com/WafCSJC.png
https://i.imgur.com/hymbO24.png

And as none do pdf I converted this one to png. It shows how the max height is set and auto entered in nanoDLP:
https://i.imgur.com/T5iZIvg.png

Can't share my firmware as I can't open it and past it to pastbin... It can be retrieved from my Google Drive as per the link to the folder if you want to go there, but otherwise, I have no other way of sharing it with you for comment.

This is the machine setting contents:

{
	"Name": "NanoDLPIMAGE2",
	"Lang": "",
	"Email": "",
	"Port": 80,
	"PrinterType": 0,
	"ZAxisPin": 0,
	"DirectionPin": 10,
	"ReverseDirectionPin": 0,
	"LimitPin": 18,
	"LimitPinB": 0,
	"LimitPinMode": 0,
	"LimitPinReset": 0,
	"WaitPin": 0,
	"EnablePin": 0,
	"EnablePinState": 0,
	"EnablePinMode": 0,
	"FaultPin": 0,
	"FaultPinState": 0,
	"ShutterPin": 11,
	"ShutterType": 0,
	"ShutterMode": 1,
	"ShutterOpen": 500,
	"ShutterClose": 2500,
	"ShutterOpenGcode": "M104 S255  ; Turn ON the UVLED",
	"ShutterCloseGcode": "M104 S0   ; Turn OFF the UVLED",
	"ShutterSignalLength": 1000,
	"FanOnGcode": "",
	"FanOffGcode": "",
	"MaxSpeed": 150,
	"MinSpeed": 50,
	"StartupSpeed": 50,
	"StopPositionMm": 10,
	"ResinDistanceMm": 10,
	"ZAxisHeight": 148000,
	"MotorDegree": 0.9,
	"MicroStep": 16,
	"LeadscrewPitch": 8,
	"LCDType": 0,
	"LCDAdress": 39,
	"LCDPath": "/dev/i2c-1",
	"ShieldType": 1,
	"ShieldEncoding": 0,
	"ShieldI2CAddress": 0,
	"ShieldUSBAddress": "/dev/ttyACM0",
	"ShieldSpeed": 115200,
	"ShieldBootup": "M104 S0 ;Make sure the UV is off\r\nM106 S200 ;Set the UV Fan to 80%",
	"ShieldShutdown": "",
	"ShieldStart": "M104 S0; Make sure the UVLED is OFF\r\nM17        ; Enable Z stepper motor\r\nG90         ; Set to absolute positioning mode\r\nG28 F400 P1 ; Home Z axis at speed 400\r\n[[WaitForDoneMessage]]\r\nG92 Z0   ; Set position to zero\r\n[[PositionSet 0]]",
	"ShieldResume": "G90  ; Put positioning in absolute mode\r\nG92 Z[[CurrentPosition]] Y0 X0 ; System crashed so we need to recover current position from nanodlp and set it on RAMP\r\nG1 Z[[LayerPosition]] P1; Move to layer position",
	"ShieldPause": "",
	"ShieldUnpause": "",
	"ShieldFinish": "M104 S0     ; Switch off UVLED\r\nG4 P10000  ; Dwell / delay 10000ms \r\nG91 ; Set to relative positioning mode \r\nG1 Z10 F150 P1 ; Move Z axis up 10mm at speed 150 \r\n[[WaitForDoneMessage]]\r\nM18            ; Disable stepper motor ",
	"ShieldForceStop": "",
	"ShieldAxisMode": 0,
	"ShieldPositioning": 0,
	"ManualMoveGcode": "G91  ; Set to relative positioning mode\r\nG1 Z[[Position]]  ; Set Z position\r\nG90  ; Set to absolute positioning mode ",
	"TopGcode": "",
	"BottomGcode": "",
	"CalibrationGcode": "",
	"CameraFrequency": 0,
	"CameraStore": 0,
	"CameraCommand": "-w 1296 -h 972 --timeout 700 --awb sun -rot 180",
	"ShutdownPin": 7,
	"ProjectorWidth": 2160,
	"ProjectorHeight": 3840,
	"ProjectorType": 0,
	"ProjectorPowerCycle": 0,
	"ProjectorSpeed": 9600,
	"ProjectorAddress": "/dev/ttyUSB0",
	"ProjectorOn": "* 0 IR 001",
	"ProjectorOff": "* 0 IR 002",
	"ProjectorLampQuery": "",
	"ProjectorLampEffect": 2.5,
	"ProjectorOnSyscall": "",
	"ProjectorOffSyscall": "",
	"ProjectorWarmup": 0,
	"DisplayController": 0,
	"ImageMirror": 0,
	"LightOutputFormula": "",
	"BarrelFactor": 0,
	"BarrelX": 0,
	"BarrelY": 0,
	"FBPath": "",
	"XYRes": 31.5,
	"YRes": 31.5,
	"Mute": 0,
	"DisplayID": 0,
	"DefaultProfile": 9,
	"SpeedFormula": "",
	"RemoteSlicer": "",
	"PressureType": 0,
	"PressureAddress": "",
	"PressureSpeed": 0,
	"PressureRegex": "",
	"PressureDebug": false,
	"ScaleClockPin": 0,
	"ScaleDataPin": 0,
	"OpenScaleAddress": "",
	"Theme": 0,
	"CustomValues": null,
	"AutoSlice": 0,
	"PreviewGenerate": 0,
	"PreviewWidth": 0,
	"PreviewHeight": 0,
	"USBDisplayAddress": ""
}

I think that's it. Difficult to see in the window if I have fully answered or correctly

Last edited by Jonners59 (2021-03-01 12:07:25)

Jonners59 · 2021-03-01 13:11:31

This is all FDM and doesn't relate to my resin printer - Wanhao D7 plus with guts removed and using the following replacements:

5.5 4K 2160x3840 LCD Remove Backlight with glass protector LS055D1SX05(G)
64 pin 20cm Ribbon
4k HDMI board and MIPI Driver
Raspberry Pi 4B
2 x >2Gb SD Card - 32Gb
Meanwell LRS350-24 LED DRIVER, DC24V 350W
BIGTREETECH SKR Mini E3 V1.2 Control Board 32Bit with TMC2209 UART Driver 3D Printer Parts Cheetah for Creality Ender 3
Youmile LM2596S Dual USB Power Supply Module Step-Down Buck Adjustable 3A DC-DC Port 15 - 4
Kyrio DC USB Brushless Cooling Fan 5V 4010 3D Printer Fan 40mm x 40mm x 10mm x 2
WINSINN 60mm Fan 24V Brushless 6010 60x10mm - High Speed (Pack of 4Pcs)
NEMA 17 0.9' Step Angle Stepper motor (400/rev) 1703HSM168A - 50oz - 1.68A

It's just adding to the confusion. Why am I doing this, what will it fix? What does it do to solve the two remaining problems?

How does it resolve that the nanoDLP does not give accurate ETA?
How does it fix that the nanoDLP does not stop at the top of the Z-Axis even though it knows where HOME/FLOOR is, what the max is and where it is or fix that the "TOP" key does not work?

Last edited by Jonners59 (2021-03-01 13:11:52)

Jonners59 · 2021-03-01 15:40:21

The print failed again. Need to take stock and revert before I jump out the window.

sinned6915 · 2021-03-01 22:23:08

bigfilsing wrote:

Hi You need to be a bit careful when posting things please
Your schematic
You have the polarity on the LED the wrong way round !!
you have the polarity of the incoming power the wrong way round !!
If people look at or share the image you posted there will be people blowing up their control boards !!!

I agree with your point. Don't be so quick to condem. Point is I was tryting to illustrate the process. I did spend the time to be careful. I also said " but you decide what devices you want to wire to whichever ports/pins."

If you pay attention to the notations on the pinout that I DID draw, the power supply is NOT wired to either terminals. Its just there. I can see how you could interpret it that way, UV- LED polarity IS wired correctly. Red wire to +V, Black to Gnd pins. How do determine that is incorrect?
Switches may be reversed as I look at it now, but they are not polarised so it does not matter.

Everryone needs to work it out for themsleves. Jonners is victim to some random marlin compile that they dont understand. They need to go through the process to work it out. That is the point.

Last edited by sinned6915 (2021-03-01 22:24:41)

sinned6915 · 2021-03-01 22:39:11

Jonners59-

I am carefully reading your reply with pics. A few thoughts as I read it.

1. What are you doing with all those chassis fans? Why do you have 4 of them going?
2. Do you have a chamber heater going?
3. Why are you using USB boards off the raspi to contol fans on the UV Array?

4. You have a TON of input-Output on that board to use.

You should spend some time with the Marlin reference and read up on fans and chamber heating. There are natively 2 or 3 fans you can configure and control indifividually.

Additonaly I believe that you can create thermostatically controlled fans by defining thermistors and tools.

5. What resin are you trying to print with, and what do you mean by the print 'fails'?
Most of my resins like to print anyehere from 25-30C. I preheat with heatgun and warmth of the printer seems to keep it warm enough.

6. the D7 build volume is 120x69x180mm. Why do you keep trying to go to 200? I think mine goes up to 195 becasue I modded a bunch of stuff, notably the platform hardware.

You dont seem to understand that Marlin believes that its max height is BIGGER than your machine is capable of, so therefore, will try to move the build platform past the physical limit. You can not change that with an M command. Its hard coded in.

Last edited by sinned6915 (2021-03-01 22:45:13)

Jonners59 · 2021-03-02 12:08:19

sinned6915 wrote:

Everryone needs to work it out for themsleves. ... ... They need to go through the process to work it out. That is the point

Whilst I appreciate the help, I really do NOT agree with this. When you buy a car do you have to work out how the engine works, compile the components, put them together and reconfigure it Whilst I have a natural curiosity and whilst I have a "if he can so can I" attitude, I do not want, or have the time or inclination to start learning and working out all this detail. I have seen a car in the showroom and now I want to drive it home so that I can help my wife feed and care for the family as a whole and home tutor our youngest whilst she tries to work. I do not want to strip the car down in the showroom and rebuild it over the next 12 months. I didn't start this project off as a hobby. I build models and as I am getting old and find making the fine detail harder, I tried a D7plus 3D printer on a couple of minor parts I am struggling with - it's in the conversation somewhere.

It was useless in terms of the detail I need and used to but realised the reasons and what was needed to make the prints better (but not if the result would be Goodenough), but also realised it was beyond my paygrade, so left it be. Someone sold me a UV array as a 1st step and said they would walk and talk me through installing it. They disappeared as soon as it was sold, fortunately, someone else said they'd help. But with their help, the controller blew up and one thing led to another - I learned they had never done it before - I ended up with no printer and replacing everything inside. So I started in May and still at it, having only just got it to print in January, having worked out by myself how to get the 4k 5.5" LCD on a Pi4B to work - probably the first. Life is far too short for this. So I have documented everything and sharing the essentials with anyone interested - hence the DRIVE share. The aim that no one HAS to go through this. Not to mention I wasted about £1,000 on this when if I had known what I was doing it would have cost about £300. So no, no one NEEDS to work this out and no one should HAVE to. It SHOULD be their choice. It SHOULD be better documented and simpler. If you want to play about and get stuck in, that's for you...

sinned6915 wrote:

Jonners is victim to some random marlin compile that they dont understand.

Victim of abandonment, overselling and lack of a willingness to be helpful and constructive, but not of a firmware. It works perfectly well. The only thing it MIGHT be able to do for me, that it doesn't, is give me an end stop at the top. What else????? It otherwise works perfectly, as the guy who sent it to me makes resin printers and CNC machines and whilst I know he uses it, I am not certain he made it, but probably did.

Sorry, this isn't an attack on you. I am always grateful for the support, but I am very frustrated with this, it was a 2nd chance for the technology and it has been a £*@"ing pain and expense and caused me to miss out on my family and help my wife support the family during this pandemic. I have had a lot of poor support all along from people, mostly working this out for myself, but I'll never use the knowledge ever again so no point. And given conversations I have had elsewhere, even my limited knowledge I am an expert compared to most which is truly incredible. @bigfilsing has been great and explained so much without me needing to reinvent the wheel and in a short time. If I had met him when I started in May I may have had a different attitude, but TBH I want this sorted, done and dusted never to be looked at again.

Can it give me the detail I can create as a modeller from the new printer, so far I am not convinced? I won't know until it starts making stuff again.

So, sorry, I do appreciate your support and help, but this old man is very frustrated and annoyed by all this, though not you. I just don't want to start opening yet another can of worms.

sinned6915 wrote:

I am carefully reading your reply with pics. A few thoughts as I read it.

Good, and THANK YOU. Much appreciated. It has gone way off course.

sinned6915 wrote:

1. What are you doing with all those chassis fans? Why do you have 4 of them going?

The D7 plus comes with 3. Two sides and one base. The D7 I bought off the guy helping me comes with 2, one side and one base. My home build printer is a D7 and D7plus stacked one on top of the other to fit all this new stuff (bar the Honeywell power supply) inside. It looks fine, fits together nicely and works for me. I am happy with it and it works well and keeps the whole system cool which is the point of the fans. That accounts for 4 of the fans (one of the D7 is not used as I do not use the base). The other 2 are very small and fit on the UV shroud. The shroud was made by the guy who makes printers and helped me with the UV. It wasn't very good as a mount as it had no fitting for the base so I made my one fitting and merged the two STL files and had it printed off by a friend. Works well bar needing clips for the actually UV to stay in place. He had advised the fans as the UV gets very hot and will burn itself out quicker without. The whole system runs between 32.6'C and 34.8'C (even when doing a 3-day print) and gets to a max of 38'C if left unused for long periods very occasionally (but drops to 34'C in a couple of minutes) so stays pretty flat regardless of how hard I work her. This is already in the blog.

sinned6915 wrote:

2. Do you have a chamber heater going?

No idea what that is, so no.

sinned6915 wrote:

3. Why are you using USB boards off the raspi to contol fans on the UV Array?

The fans have USBs fitted. Because it is simple and works perfectly fine.

sinned6915 wrote:

4. You have a TON of input-Output on that board to use.

Yes, I can see that. Will need special plugs fitted to anything I attach if I were to use them.

sinned6915 wrote:

You should spend some time with the Marlin reference and read up on fans and chamber heating. There are natively 2 or 3 fans you can configure and control indifividually.

I have 3 attached to the controller and they are turned on and off by it. One pair seems to change speed according to heat. I can hear it speeding up when working hard and slowing down when cooled.

sinned6915 wrote:

Additionally I believe that you can create thermostatically controlled fans by defining thermistors and tools.

As above, already doing so for the main 3 fans.

sinned6915 wrote:

5. What resin are you trying to print with, and what do you mean by the print 'fails'?
Most of my resins like to print anyehere from 25-30C. I preheat with heatgun and warmth of the printer seems to keep it warm enough.

At the moment I am using Technology Outlet Grey - a little known resin. Not an expensive one, but I found it is better than Monocure or Wanhao resins... All my resins are kept at room temperature as I work in my office in the house. No fear of being too cold or too hot.

Print fails. I get gummy bears. Part on the build plate and part in the vat. I do get a few parts of the support but almost all do not exist. If you look in the DRIVE I have the STLs of what I want to make. Note that the test models used for tuning the resin cure times form perfectly and are getting me the best detail yet, but it is when I try and print the actual model they seem to fail. I am wondering if it is because of the fine detail and resultant need for fine supports... One build can be seen to have supports that fail 2mm before where they should touch the model..

sinned6915 wrote:

6. the D7 build volume is 120x69x180mm. Why do you keep trying to go to 200? I think mine goes up to 195 becasue I modded a bunch of stuff, notably the platform hardware.

? Confused. When have I said I am trying to go to or above 200?

I am not going to 200 intentionally and knowing it doesn't stop at the top I never go that far. I want a max in case it does accidentally. What would be nice is for the after print the build plate rises about 5cm and stops, but if the build is tall and that lift of 5cms takes it past the 18cm then I want it to stop before 18.5 and not crash at 20cm. Also when it is sent to FLOOR the build plate lifts about 10mm before descending. If it is near the top, again it will crash, hence my max of 185mm, but a stop would be better. It is a safety feature and also the nanoDLP has a "TOP" button as well as a "HOME/FLOOR" button. Would be nice to be able to use it when I want it or need it.

I believe the code will sort the post-print max lift and understand that code added to the nano will give a max TOP, but requires editing the backup and reloading it. As I have always suspected. Whilst the controller does all the work, the nano knowing the max bottom and max top and where the build plate is can instruct the controller in what to do, such as stop if it is going too far. No need to edit or create new firmware.

sinned6915 wrote:

You dont seem to understand that Marlin believes that its max height is BIGGER than your machine is capable of, so therefore, will try to move the build platform past the physical limit. You can not change that with an M command. Its hard coded in.

I do get that since @bigfilsing explained. But I also believe or should I say, can not understand why, given that the nanoDLP knows where "HOME" is and where "MAX" is and it also knows where the build plate is that it can not tell the Controller to stop if it gets to within the max position, just as it does otherwise. That is the difference. As above the nano can do this, and new firmware is not required. The nano can instruct the controller what to do if it sees it going off course (too high).

I think I have answered everything. hope this helps and apologies for the Victor Mildrew....

I need to get back to tutoring my son. We are doing the moon and it's influences.

Later I shall replace the fep and then try the test model and the GCode on a small model

Last edited by Jonners59 (2021-03-04 11:37:39)

Jonners59 · 2021-03-02 15:07:35

bigfilsing wrote:

Great news its now working
As for the end position you could , instead of
G91
G1 Z10 F150 P1
In theory you could not switch to relative mode and stay with absolute mode
G90
G1 Z"whatever your max height is" F150
I would definitely do a couple of dry runs to make sure this edit works
Cheers

Hiya
Way behind now as the delay writing my last reply meant #3 son threw a wobbly and wouldn't get on. I need to be there before he starts to find his toys. At least I don't have any shopping or cooking to do tonight! :-)

Right, so did a big clean out of vat and build plate, taking everything apart and replaced the old fep. So all very, very clean.

So I need to add this

G90
G1  Z"whatever your max height is" F150

Question 1: To where? I guess I only have 2 places where a max height would be needed. End of print and send to the top.

Question 2: What exactly do I add? The max height I go to is 185mm or 148,000 pulses. The absolute top is 200mm. Don't know what that is in pulses. Maybe an additional 11,994 based on sending my build plate down 15mm. = 159,994. So what should the entry be?

G1 Z148000 F150

or

G1 Z185 F150

I'll then run a small test.

Best, Jon

bigfilsing · 2021-03-02 16:31:29

So here we go
As per my previous explanation of relative V absolute

Previous you had as you end of print G code
G91 : switch to relative mode
G1 Z10 F150 ; which will move the z axis up 10 from the position where it ended ( printing)

I suggested you try (on a dry run as always)
G90 : switch or keep absolute positioning
G1 Z 185 F150 : where 185mm is the height you want to raise the head to at the end of a print
Simple

As for pulses ( its been a while since i messed with them and now with the new layout there's no need to mess with them at all.)

As far as i remember a pulse is equal to a step.
How far that moves the Z axis is dependent on the lead screw pitch
You have a 0.9 deg stepper so will require 400 pulses to make 1 rotation the rest is math's with your lead screw info

Last edited by bigfilsing (2021-03-02 17:06:55)

Jonners59 · 2021-03-02 16:38:12

bigfilsing wrote:

So here we go
As per my previous explanation of relative V absolute
Previous you had as you end of print G code
G91 : switch to relative mode
G1 Z10 F150 ; which will move the z axis up 10 from the position where it ended ( printing)
I suggested you try (on a dry run as always)
G90 : switch or keep absolute positioning
G1 Z 185 F150 : where 185mm is the height you want to raise the head to at the end of a print
Simple
As for pulses ( its been a while since i messed with them and now with the new layout there's no need to mess with them at all.)
As far as i remember a pulse is equal to a step.
How far that moves the Z axis is dependent on the lead screw pitch
You have a 0.9 deg stepper so will require 400 pulses to make 1 rotation the rest is math's with you lead screw info

Thanks trouble. I wasn't sure if it was pulses used or mm. I can add this then. So much said of late that I'd lost track. Yes, a dry run is logical. If I still had hare it'd be a blond moment.

So went into Machine Settings -> Code/GCode and changed "Print Stop Code"

From this:

G91 ; Set to relative positioning mode 
G1 Z10 F150 P1 ; Move Z axis up 10mm at speed 150

To this:

G90 : switch or keep absolute positioning
G1 Z 185 F150 P1  : where 185mm is the height you want to raise the head to at the end of a print

Note I added the P1 as there was a P1 in the first one and I am ASSUMING it means something like Port 1. If it does not work or the machine blows up I'll take it out, unless you tell me before I try it to take it out, in which case I'll do that before testing.

Last edited by Jonners59 (2021-03-03 16:48:07)

Jonners59 · 2021-03-03 17:05:49

bigfilsing wrote:

I suggested you try (on a dry run as always)
G90 : switch or keep absolute positioning
G1 Z 185 F150 : where 185mm is the height you want to raise the head to at the end of a print
Simple

FANTASTIC!!!!! It worked. That is so much better as it means that it doesn't matter what sized model it will never go too high and I don't need to manually add any lift to get the model out.

https://imgur.com/DqfjQay

I changed it to:

G90 : switch or keep absolute positioning
G1 Z 185 F150 P1  : where 185mm is the height you want to raise the head to at the end of a print

Now if that could be assigned to the Set-Up -> Z-AXIS Control -> "TOP" button that would be great, but suspect that is an SW thing for the nano chaps. Suspect it would need an option in the Code/GCode section of Machine Settings. Also as an absolute parameter to prevent accidents.

EDIT:
I have learned that this can be done. However, it requires editing the Machine Backup file machine.json

{
	"Name": "NanoDLPIMAGE2",
	"Lang": "",
	"Email": "",
	"Port": 80,
	"PrinterType": 0,
	"ZAxisPin": 0,
	"DirectionPin": 10,
	"ReverseDirectionPin": 0,
	"LimitPin": 18,
	"LimitPinB": 0,
	"LimitPinMode": 0,
	"LimitPinReset": 0,
	"WaitPin": 0,
	"EnablePin": 0,
	"EnablePinState": 0,
	"EnablePinMode": 0,
	"FaultPin": 0,
	"FaultPinState": 0,
	"ShutterPin": 11,
	"ShutterType": 0,
	"ShutterMode": 1,
	"ShutterOpen": 500,
	"ShutterClose": 2500,
	"ShutterOpenGcode": "M104 S255  ; Turn ON the UVLED",
	"ShutterCloseGcode": "M104 S0   ; Turn OFF the UVLED",
	"ShutterSignalLength": 1000,
	"FanOnGcode": "",
	"FanOffGcode": "",
	"MaxSpeed": 150,
	"MinSpeed": 50,
	"StartupSpeed": 50,
	"StopPositionMm": 10,
	"ResinDistanceMm": 10,
	"ZAxisHeight": 148000,
	"MotorDegree": 0.9,
	"MicroStep": 16,
	"LeadscrewPitch": 8,
	"LCDType": 0,
	"LCDAdress": 39,
	"LCDPath": "/dev/i2c-1",
	"ShieldType": 1,
	"ShieldEncoding": 0,
	"ShieldI2CAddress": 0,
	"ShieldUSBAddress": "/dev/ttyACM0",
	"ShieldSpeed": 115200,
	"ShieldBootup": "M104 S0 ;Make sure the UV is off\r\nM106 S200 ;Set the UV Fan to 80%",
	"ShieldShutdown": "",
	"ShieldStart": "M104 S0; Make sure the UVLED is OFF\r\nM17        ; Enable Z stepper motor\r\nG90         ; Set to absolute positioning mode\r\nG28 F400 P1 ; Home Z axis at speed 400\r\n[[WaitForDoneMessage]]\r\nG92 Z0   ; Set position to zero\r\n[[PositionSet 0]]",
	"ShieldResume": "G90  ; Put positioning in absolute mode\r\nG92 Z[[CurrentPosition]] Y0 X0 ; System crashed so we need to recover current position from nanodlp and set it on RAMP\r\nG1 Z[[LayerPosition]] P1; Move to layer position",
	"ShieldPause": "",
	"ShieldUnpause": "",
	"ShieldFinish": "M104 S0     ; Switch off UVLED\r\nG4 P10000  ; Dwell / delay 10000ms \r\nG90 : switch or keep absolute positioning\r\nG1 Z 185 F150 P1  : where 185mm is the height you want to raise the head to at the end of a print\r\n[[WaitForDoneMessage]]\r\nM18            ; Disable stepper motor ",
	"ShieldForceStop": "",
	"ShieldAxisMode": 0,
	"ShieldPositioning": 0,
	"ManualMoveGcode": "G91  ; Set to relative positioning mode\r\nG1 Z[[Position]]  ; Set Z position\r\nG90  ; Set to absolute positioning mode ",
	"TopGcode": "",
	"BottomGcode": "",
	"CalibrationGcode": "",
	"CameraFrequency": 0,
	"CameraStore": 0,
	"CameraCommand": "-w 1296 -h 972 --timeout 700 --awb sun -rot 180",
	"ShutdownPin": 7,
	"ProjectorWidth": 2160,
	"ProjectorHeight": 3840,
	"ProjectorType": 0,
	"ProjectorPowerCycle": 0,
	"ProjectorSpeed": 9600,
	"ProjectorAddress": "/dev/ttyUSB0",
	"ProjectorOn": "* 0 IR 001",
	"ProjectorOff": "* 0 IR 002",
	"ProjectorLampQuery": "",
	"ProjectorLampEffect": 2.5,
	"ProjectorOnSyscall": "",
	"ProjectorOffSyscall": "",
	"ProjectorWarmup": 0,
	"DisplayController": 0,
	"ImageMirror": 0,
	"LightOutputFormula": "",
	"BarrelFactor": 0,
	"BarrelX": 0,
	"BarrelY": 0,
	"FBPath": "",
	"XYRes": 31.5,
	"YRes": 31.5,
	"Mute": 0,
	"DisplayID": 0,
	"DefaultProfile": 9,
	"SpeedFormula": "",
	"RemoteSlicer": "",
	"PressureType": 0,
	"PressureAddress": "",
	"PressureSpeed": 0,
	"PressureRegex": "",
	"PressureDebug": false,
	"ScaleClockPin": 0,
	"ScaleDataPin": 0,
	"OpenScaleAddress": "",
	"Theme": 0,
	"CustomValues": null,
	"AutoSlice": 0,
	"PreviewGenerate": 0,
	"PreviewWidth": 0,
	"PreviewHeight": 0,
	"USBDisplayAddress": ""
}

The entry we are looking for is this line:

"TopGcode": "",

I believe this changes to

"TopGcode": "G90\r\nG1 Z 185 F150 P1",

Seems adding

\r\n

is a line break

Can someone confirm this please?????

But it raises another question.
Why is it not accessible via "Setup" -> "Machine Settings" -> "Code/GCode" or "Axis/Movement" or via the "Setup" -> "Z-Axis Control"?

FAILED PRINTS:
This is the BEST resolution I have ever achieved on this printer, before or after all the work, so really pleased with that. Red paper to help show the detail. All the slots are open and clean, as well as all the other details. Works great in the calibration model.

https://imgur.com/jiSYjl2
https://imgur.com/EY9AZL4
https://imgur.com/GxflCsu
https://imgur.com/2ghZMqF
https://imgur.com/0wSt9nF

.. but fails when actually printing a detailed model such as these aileron horns - STL files sent privately FYI
https://imgur.com/CAmQXVd
https://imgur.com/LJvjPBN

Last edited by Jonners59 (2021-03-04 13:56:34)

Jonners59 · 2021-03-04 12:33:39

Edited the Machine settings json backup

"TopGcode": "G90 ; switch or keep absolute positioning\r\nG1 Z 185 F150 P1  ; where 185mm is the height you want to raise the head to at the end of a print",

Saved and reinstalled.

This now activates the TOP button and takes the build plate to the top without the risk of going too far and invoking a crash. It seems to NOT prevent any accidental manual movement such as selecting lift 100mm when there is only 50mm left and if the finished printing GCode, "Print Stop Code", is also not set with the same entry, then if the build exceeds the max or is close too it then it would not stop that crashing the top either. Best to change that too...

"Print Stop Code"

M104 S0     ; Switch off UVLED
G4 P10000  ; Dwell / delay 10000ms 
G90 : switch or keep absolute positioning
G1 Z 185 F150 P1  : where 185mm is the height you want to raise the head to at the end of a print
[[WaitForDoneMessage]]
M18            ; Disable stepper motor

Would be nice if it could be added in the machine settings and it also acted above, as a priority over manual commands, but still very useful.

Shahin · 2021-03-05 13:56:32

You can use [JS] tag to control max height. Another solution is to hardcode height on Marlin Firmware.

Shahin · 2021-03-05 13:56:35

You can use [JS] tag to control max height. Another solution is to hardcode height on Marlin Firmware.

Jonners59 · 2021-03-05 14:46:13

Shahin wrote:

You can use [JS] tag to control max height. Another solution is to hardcode height on Marlin Firmware.

Thank you, Shahin,.
Yes, hard coding the SKR/Controller firmware is an option, but a VERY long convoluted one and not one most people would want to consider. It's a whole new world and would also require learning everything over for the platform. Far more chance also of making more mistakes and screwing everything further. Just simply adding the line to the json backup (as you showed me) and reinstalling it takes 5 minutes and is excellent. It should be a field in the Setup -> Machine Settings -> GCode section and mirrored in the Axis Control section.

nanoDLP

#76 2021-02-26 09:36:42

Re: Prints suddenly stopped working at 2mm Why and is it vref or somethin?

#77 2021-02-26 21:37:04

Re: Prints suddenly stopped working at 2mm Why and is it vref or somethin?

#78 2021-02-27 13:33:06

Re: Prints suddenly stopped working at 2mm Why and is it vref or somethin?

#79 2021-02-27 23:16:22

Re: Prints suddenly stopped working at 2mm Why and is it vref or somethin?

#80 2021-02-28 12:48:08

Re: Prints suddenly stopped working at 2mm Why and is it vref or somethin?

#81 2021-02-28 16:13:00

Re: Prints suddenly stopped working at 2mm Why and is it vref or somethin?

#82 2021-02-28 18:09:57

Re: Prints suddenly stopped working at 2mm Why and is it vref or somethin?

#83 2021-03-01 03:57:48

Re: Prints suddenly stopped working at 2mm Why and is it vref or somethin?

#84 2021-03-01 11:31:42

Re: Prints suddenly stopped working at 2mm Why and is it vref or somethin?

#85 2021-03-01 13:11:31

Re: Prints suddenly stopped working at 2mm Why and is it vref or somethin?

#86 2021-03-01 15:40:21

Re: Prints suddenly stopped working at 2mm Why and is it vref or somethin?

#87 2021-03-01 22:23:08

Re: Prints suddenly stopped working at 2mm Why and is it vref or somethin?

#88 2021-03-01 22:39:11

Re: Prints suddenly stopped working at 2mm Why and is it vref or somethin?

#89 2021-03-02 12:08:19

Re: Prints suddenly stopped working at 2mm Why and is it vref or somethin?

#90 2021-03-02 15:07:35

Re: Prints suddenly stopped working at 2mm Why and is it vref or somethin?

#91 2021-03-02 16:31:29

Re: Prints suddenly stopped working at 2mm Why and is it vref or somethin?

#92 2021-03-02 16:38:12

Re: Prints suddenly stopped working at 2mm Why and is it vref or somethin?

#93 2021-03-03 17:05:49

Re: Prints suddenly stopped working at 2mm Why and is it vref or somethin?

#94 2021-03-04 12:33:39

Re: Prints suddenly stopped working at 2mm Why and is it vref or somethin?

#95 2021-03-05 13:56:32

Re: Prints suddenly stopped working at 2mm Why and is it vref or somethin?

#96 2021-03-05 13:56:35

Re: Prints suddenly stopped working at 2mm Why and is it vref or somethin?

#97 2021-03-05 14:46:13

Re: Prints suddenly stopped working at 2mm Why and is it vref or somethin?

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