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5h17, f@~*k. damn, BLAST!!!!!!!!!!
Exactly the reason why I didn't want to try taking it apart. LCD broke. The small ribbon cable that comes off the LCD and connects it to the small MIPI board is so short. A stump actually and so is difficult to get to it and is VERY easily broken or torn off. I keep asking the manufacturers to make it longer or provide extensions, but they never do. That's another £80 wasted! Fortunately, I have another spare, but I'll also need to order another.
Right. I have done the test.
M104 S100 = 24.44v
M104 S0 = -0.939v
M104 S255 = 24.44vAnd I repeat the tests many times and all give the same reading.
Right. Given all inside is fine, I shall now swap the two motors around and close up. No more accidents. Spent FAR too much as it is, 90% on LCD screens and HDMI boards.
Any objections?
That sucks Jon . i feel you Its happened to me before
You should be able to get them around 50USD !! The very early ELEGOO mars has the same 2 K screen !!! Be careful what you order there are a few different types
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Its very strange you measure the same voltage for M104 S100 & S255 We have to remember we are measuring and apparent voltage when it comes to PWM output !!
It could be that the firmware is set to Bang Bang mode rather than PWM . Thats a long shot just trying to explain the lack of difference in your measurements.
At the end of the day we just want on & off so no real problem then. I think we should still use M104 S255 for on and M104 S0 for off .
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That sucks Jon . i feel you Its happened to me before
You should be able to get them around 50USD !! The very early ELEGOO mars has the same 2 K screen !!! Be careful what you order there are a few different types
I have spare 2K LCD. I can get those for about £22 now, but this is a 4K LCD and fitted to the toughened glass are about £80 and 3 week wait.
1/ Fit the new motor (and updated the Esteps accordingly)
2/ Disconnect the wire from the SKR to the UVLED driver ( at the driver end if its easier to get to) Then send M104 S100 and measure the voltage on the wired going to the Driver or the output terminals of the SKR
3/ Then send M104 S255 and measure again
4/ Then M104 S0 to power off that output
That is the same tests you asked me to do before. Are you wanting them repeated? It'll give the same results, surely.
5/ Then type M106 S255 and see what comes on ( if anything) I suspect a fan ! Also trace where it is connected on the SKR please. From what I've read some say Fan0 is controlled by PWM while some say it the normal FDM part cooling fan output Not sure hence the switch on and tell me what it does.
As per picture:
Fan1 (cable removed, but shown in other photos) are the two fans in the rear left and right of the D7 Plus. Therefore the base fan is in FAN0, which is at the front edge, mid way up.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/xNgbnuhrqAD7RpFn9
Shall do.
At the end of the day we just want on & off so no real problem then. I think we should still use M104 S255 for on and M104 S0 for off .
Noted and agree. The variable resistor seems to work, though would prefer the GCode if for no other reasons than I do not need to strip her and I can use the increase light intensity option in nano...
I am struggling to get the motor out. The screws are so tight and it is a confined space. My baby is very naked and vulnerable.
Last edited by Jonners59 (2021-02-13 12:14:56)
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That is the same tests you asked me to do before. Are you wanting them repeated? It'll give the same results, surely.
No need to test again we just had some posting overlap :-)
Is the FAN0 always on ( when power is on of course) ??
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Do you have a soldering iron ??? If you do set it to max and jab it in the screw head . A bit of heat can often help free a screw ( especially if Loctite is involved
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Jonners59 wrote:That is the same tests you asked me to do before. Are you wanting them repeated? It'll give the same results, surely.
No need to test again we just had some posting overlap :-)
Is the FAN0 always on ( when power is on of course) ??
OK
Seems to be always off. All the others turn, but not that one.
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bigfilsing wrote:Jonners59 wrote:That is the same tests you asked me to do before. Are you wanting them repeated? It'll give the same results, surely.
No need to test again we just had some posting overlap :-)
Is the FAN0 always on ( when power is on of course) ??
OK
Seems to be always off. All the others turn, but not that one.
Type M106 S255 into terminal and see if it comes on ??
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Type M106 S255 into terminal and see if it comes on ??
Brilliant. Fan is working!!!!!!!!!
Sorry about the delay. Taken an age to remove old motor and put in the new add the LCD and put most back and then do the test.
So, shall I close her up again? She is getting cold.
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bigfilsing wrote:Type M106 S255 into terminal and see if it comes on ??
Brilliant. Fan is working!!!!!!!!!
Sorry about the delay. Taken an age to remove old motor and put in the new add the LCD and put most back and then do the test.
So, shall I close her up again? She is getting cold.
One last test just to confirm PWM on FAN 0
type M106 S255
then M106 S125
the fan should then run at half speed ???
then M107 to turn off
Where is the fan physically located and what do you think its function is supposed to be ??
I'm not sure what use a variable fan is at this stage ( now we have confirmed your UVLED is controlled by M104 on another port) but it may be handy at some stage to have control of the fan.
Then close her up
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OK, so have a problem with the motor. Asked it to go to FLOOR and it made a hec of a nise. Grinding, like it has hit the bottom or top. Seemed to just vibrate. I used the existing cable and something tells me that may have something to do with it.
By the way. These work a treat... Thank you.
type M106 S255
then M106 S125
the fan should then run at half speed = YES
then M107 to turn off = YES
Last edited by Jonners59 (2021-02-13 17:05:23)
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OK, so have a problem with the motor. Asked it to go to FLOOR and it made a hec of a nice. Seemed to just vibrate. I used the existing cable and something tells me that may have something to do with it.
Easy fix . Swap 2 cables around ( its due to the internal wiring of the stepper motor and quite a common occurrence )
So disconnect the cable at the motor end and if you look carefully each pin is held in with a little tooth You need to lift this tooth ever so slightly and the pin will come out .
Try swapping 2 & 3 around
If that doesn't work swap 1 and 3 around
If you motor is then turning the wrong way Swap 1 & 4 as well as 2&3
Theres a "knack" to releasing the pins so take your time . When youve done it a few times its easy
Last edited by bigfilsing (2021-02-13 17:11:24)
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Gets worse. Nothing is working... UV or LCD. I am going to take a break and will resume Monday (tomorrow is Valentine and I need to spend time with the SWMBO) with a fresh mind.
Thanks so far.
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Might wanna wait with closing the back plate that covers the stepper . It would be good to do some dry prints and see if the stepper motor gets hot !!!!
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Gets worse. Nothing is working... UV or LCD. I am going to take a break and will resume Monday (tomorrow is Valentine and I need to spend time with the SWMBO) with a fresh mind.
Thanks so far.
You are welcome
Probably good to take a break then make a fresh start
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You are welcome
Probably good to take a break then make a fresh start
Good evening, BigFilsing!
OK, so checked the LCD on my laptop and it was working, so reinstalled. Checked the UV power and all was good. Played around a bit adding some of the GCodes you gave me and some of the old, because I was bored and wanted to see what would happen and low and behold the UV started to work again. Checked the image on the LCD using the nanoDLP calibration images and all was good. I then spent some time having a go at the motor cabling. Found some small jumper leads and used them to do the testing. Fuzzy Picture Here. The first option, swap 2 & 3 and hay ho, bingo, it worked!!!!
I have ordered a tidier version of the jump lead for future, but they made it vastly easier and less fiddly than attempting to play with the pins, which could also work lose anyway. So, we have a working machine. Next stage is your GCode updates/upgrades/improvements if you think it needs it. Not sure what to do re the bottom fan, that sits under the UV/Heatshield that we tested. I tried (note earlier comment) M500 after trying it and it did not stay after reboot, even though the nano RAMPS said it had been saved. It did flinch for a split second then stopped. So I then looked at the GCode I already had for FAN1 = M107 P1 and M106 S0 I tried the same, swapping P1 for P0 assuming it was the fan port. Nothing happened, so I then put in M106 P255, noting your comments of earlier, and the fan span. I felt smug. I then did an M500 and it said it saved, but after a re-boot, nothing, no fan. GGGRRR. Will I need to put in M106 S255 every bootup?
Also, when I ask the build plate to go to home, it lifts a bit before it starts its descend. That is OK in most cases, but not if it is at the top, 18.5mm as it reduces the max height and also if above 18.5mm it could and does crash into the top/end, which makes a horrid sound (as per this blog) and can not be doing it any good. Any solutions?
That also brings me to the top. Is there a way of ensuring it does NOT go past 18.5mm or 148,000 pulses for 0.9° and 76,000 pulses for 1.8° motors?
Once we are both happy I shall add resin and try a print.
Look forward to hearing from you. Cheers
Jonners
Last edited by Jonners59 (2021-02-15 16:40:33)
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Ok well thats all sounds good.
You definitely need a better solution for the stepper wiring but OK you have it working now which is good.
Lift before home
That something that's inherited from the FDM printer world Where without lifting you could damage the printed part ..potentially
In this case its not useful . Easy to change but only in firmware and i dont think you can do that from a terminal. In turn that would mean making and compiling new firmware from scratch as you dont have the source code for your machine ( or do you ???)
That could open a can of worms at this stage and set us back a few steps . It could be worth it eventually as then you'd have complete control of your machine.
Having said that there's not a whole lot of Marlin FW functionality needed for resin printing.
You could install a max Z endstop but that too would require editing in the firmware.
As for the fan ( and most if not all PWM outputs their boot up state is off which makes sense if you think about it.
As your boot up code you should have
M104 S0 ( to doubly make sure the UV is off at boot up )
&
M106 S255 ( to turn on the fan )
Alternatively you could include the fan on command in the "open shutter" section M106 S255 & M106 S0 in the close shutter
Honestly speaking this last option, while technically possible, can be more annoying than a constant fan so in my opinion put the command in the boot up section
I often find fans are just as efficient at S 200 (80%)or even S175 (70%) and make a lot less noise . Maybe worth trying
Last edited by bigfilsing (2021-02-16 08:08:22)
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Thank you...
Ok well thats all sounds good.
You definitely need a better solution for the stepper wiring but OK you have it working now which is good.
Yes, so far. Truth is in the printing though.
Well, the cable that came with the motor doesn't have the 100% correct plug on the SKR end, but would work, but then I'd have all the messing with the pins which I am not 100% convinced about as they can become looser. The cable that comes with the D7 motor I am using, but it does not allow for easy separation of the cables for changing the pins around. Also, with the thought of trial and error testing cable configs, seemed logical to go for jumper leads, but I didn't have any with the correct plug for the SKR. LED lighting seems to use them but can't swap wires about. I actually found one for Adafruit (Arduino boards) which I have ordered. What I did have (stollen from #1 son's secret stash) was a short F to F jumper with correct plugs on both ends and short M to M jumper leads. That does for now until the Adafruit jumper arrives and made testing very easy especially with the correct colours wires. I was able to test live too so took no time at all.
Lift before home
That something that's inherited from the FDM printer world Where without lifting you could damage the printed part ..potentially
In this case its not useful . Easy to change but only in firmware and i dont think you can do that from a terminal. In turn that would mean making and compiling new firmware from scratch as you dont have the source code for your machine ( or do you ???)
That could open a can of worms at this stage and set us back a few steps . It could be worth it eventually as then you'd have complete control of your machine.
Having said that there's not a whole lot of Marlin FW functionality needed for resin printing.
You could install a max Z endstop but that too would require editing in the firmware.
MMM I'll leave it. Now I have been playing with the nanoDLP and SKR installed I know it is there and will just be careful.
As for the fan ( and most if not all PWM outputs their boot up state is off which makes sense if you think about it.
As your boot up code you should have
M104 S0 ( to doubly make sure the UV is off at boot up )
&
M106 S255 ( to turn on the fan )
Alternatively you could include the fan on command in the "open shutter" section M106 S255 & M106 S0 in the close shutter
Honestly speaking this last option, while technically possible, can be more annoying than a constant fan so in my opinion, put the command in the bootup section
1. I'll stick to the M106 S255 in the bootup code. I assume it joins the list of other codes I input via the nanoDLP RAMPS terminal and save using M500...?
This lot:
M104 S0
M107 P1
M106 S0
M906 Z850
M92 Z800
M500I often find fans are just as efficient at S 200 (80%)or even S175 (70%) and make a lot less noise . Maybe worth trying
Yup, get that. TBH only the side fans and even then I only think one of them is that noisy and that one is only really noisy at the start and soon settles down. But I think 80% is good as there is still a rushing air sound and it'll make the fan last longer so I'll use the M106 S200
2. So looking at the above, if my assumption as to when/how to add this is correct it should be changed to:
M104 S0
M107 P1
M106 S0
M106 S200
M906 Z850
M92 Z800
M5003. Now re above, which I had put on the SKR, some explanation and or correction as whilst I get all this, I am confused by the cmds I have sent to the SKR:
If M107 P1 = turn on fan 1 and
M106 S0 is turn fan off or set speed 0, then that is counter-intuitive, no?
and as we are now then adding
M106 S200 which is setting the speed of P1 to 80%...?
But also the two lower side fans are on Fan port 1 and the base fan is on fan port 0
4. Also now confused by this, as per reply #14
DLP printers use the part cooling fan output as it is controlled by PWM and on most control board ( inc your SKR) has a relatively hefty MOSFET so can provide the current the UV LED requires
M106 S0 = off
M106 S255 = on ( 255 being the max)
M106 S125 = 50% on ( we dont use this as we only want the UV LED on or off)
M107 = off
Normally all we need to use is M106 S255 for UVLED on and M107 for off
However you have some M104 Gcodes . In a filament printer this would be for the hotend ( which also has a MOSFET out put) and maybe in your case they have used it for the UVLED This confirmed by the Shutter Open Code: M104 S100 ( i think this should ...
Is M104 the UV or M106 or M107?
M104 turns off the UV when set to S0 and turns on the UV when set to S100 or 255
M106 turned on the fan when set to S100 to 255 and probably would also if set to S0
M107 turned off the fan
I am getting confused now as what is what :-(
Looking forward to your reply and next steps... :-D
Last edited by Jonners59 (2021-02-16 12:09:17)
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JUST waking up!!!
I guess the GCodes do NOT go directly into the SKR but into the nanoDLP commands in Machine settings. Axis, COde-Gcode and Shutter specifically...
Anyway, I await your comments and feedback and shall get on with something else in the mantime.
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JUST waking up!!!
I guess the GCodes do NOT go directly into the SKR but into the nanoDLP commands in Machine settings. Axis, COde-Gcode and Shutter specifically...
Anyway, I await your comments and feedback and shall get on with something else in the mantime.
Its a pity but i dont have my machine up and running to check
You are correct
Gcode to the SKR is purely to edit the FW and once set doesnt have to be addressed again
so as you have done , changed the esteps to suit your 0.9 deg stepper . Then M500 to save
Everything else in in the NanoDLP settings page . Just start with this ( potentially a fan / some fans wont work but we'll address that once the basics work ( itll just mean adding to the boot up gcode )
(remember inserting the ";" defines a comment
First and foremost record what you currently have in the settings pages ( you can copy and paste the text (into a simple text doc))
BOOT UP CODE
---------------------------------------------------------
M104 S0 ; Make sure the UV is off
M106 S200 ; Set the UV Fan to 80%
-----------------------------------------------------------------
SHUTTER OPEN CODE
--------------------------------------------------------
M104 S255 ; Turn ON the UVLED
----------------------------------------------------
SHUTTER CLOSE GCODE
----------------------------------------------------
M104 S0 ; Turn OFF the UVLED
---------------------------------------------------
START OF PRINT GCODE
---------------------------------------------------
M104 S0 ; Make sure the UVLED is OFF
M17 ; Enable Z stepper motor
G90 ; Set to absolute positioning mode
G28 F400 P1 ; Home Z axis at speed 400
[[WaitForDoneMessage]]
G92 Z0 ; Set position to zero
[[PositionSet 0]]
-------------------------------------------------------
RESUME PRINT GCODE
-------------------------------------------------------------------
G90 ; Put positioning in absolute mode
G92 Z[[CurrentPosition]] Y0 X0 ; System crashed so we need to recover current position from nanodlp and set it on RAMP
G1 Z[[LayerPosition]] P1 ; Move to layer position
------------------------------------------------------------------
MANUAL MOVEMENT GCODE
-----------------------------------------------------------------
G91 ; Set to relative positioning mode
G1 Z[[Position]] ; Set Z position
G90 ; Set to absolute positioning mode
----------------------------------------------------------------
PRINT STOP GCODE
-------------------------------------------------------------
M104 S0 ; Switch off UVLED
G4 P10000 ; Dwell / delay 10000ms
G91 ; Set to relative positioning mode
G1 Z10 F150 P1 ; Move Z axis up 10mm at speed 150
[[WaitForDoneMessage]]
M18 ; Disable stepper motor
-------------------------------------------------------------
In your resin profile you should have this >>>
CODE BEFORE EACH LAYER
-------------------------------------------------------------
G1 Z[[LayerPosition]] F[[ZSpeed]] P1 ; Move to layer position
[[WaitForDoneMessage]]
[[PositionSet [[LayerPosition]]]]
------------------------------------------------------------
CODE AFTER EACH LAYER
------------------------------------------------------------
G1 Z{[[LayerPosition]]+[[ZLiftDistance]]} F{[[ZSpeed]]/5} P1 ; Lift to wait position
[[WaitForDoneMessage]]
[[PositionSet [[LayerPosition]]]]
------------------------------------------------------------
All the above is from my records of my machine but ive edited the UVLED ON/OFF commands
and the fan turn on at boot up to suit your set up.
SO if you have all the above then try a dry run and let me know
Cheers
Phil
Last edited by bigfilsing (2021-02-18 01:17:12)
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TO answer your questions
"Is M104 the UV or M106 or M107?" >> Yes M104 S 255 turns on the UVLED & M104 S0 turns it off. M106 S255 turns on the UV fan & M106 S0 ( or M107) turns it off
"M104 turns off the UV when set to S0 and turns on the UV when set to S100 or 255" >>Yes as above but stick with ON being S255
"M106 turned on the fan when set to S100 to 255 and probably would also if set to S0" No S0 will switch it off S255 is full on S200 is 80% on The 0-100% range is = 0-255
"M107 turned off the fan" >>Yes
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Thanks for that. I have updated my sheet and loaded on to the printer. Made it turn the UV on and off, lifted and dropped the build plate showed the calibration images, blah, blah, blah. Not done a dry run as yet, but so far all works perfectly, even the fan at the bottom!
Tomorrow I shall try a dry run or two, and then revert.
Thank you, thank you, thank you... oh, and good night :-)
Jonners59
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SO if you have all the above then try a dry run and let me know
Cheers
Phil
Hiya Phil
Just to let you know that I have done 2 dry runs. The first to within 0.6mm of the top of the build WITH the build plat attached. I wanted to see if it was moving and building to the desired height and not stopping at 2mm, which it passed. The model is a 10mm cube. The 2nd was to ensure that the image was showing properly and turning on and off correctly, and it passed that too with flying colours. Only one small, a minor thing which I had before and that is that the UV turns on about 1 second before the image is shown. I think that is a bit long, but suspect given the history of the port used it was required to turn a fan on before the heating element started, so probably can't be changed.
So all passed with flying colours. What next? I'll give it one more clean, and then should I do a wet run. If so, no point in my test models as it was the wheel that caused the big grief and where the problem started, so would leap in. Your thoughts please???
Best and many thanks Jon
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Hiya Phil
Just to let you know that I have done 2 dry runs. The first to within 0.6mm of the top of the build WITH the build plat attached. I wanted to see if it was moving and building to the desired height and not stopping at 2mm, which it passed. The model is a 10mm cube. The 2nd was to ensure that the image was showing properly and turning on and off correctly, and it passed that too with flying colours. Only one small, a minor thing which I had before and that is that the UV turns on about 1 second before the image is shown. I think that is a bit long, but suspect given the history of the port used it was required to turn a fan on before the heating element started, so probably can't be changed.So all passed with flying colours. What next? I'll give it one more clean, and then should I do a wet run. If so, no point in my test models as it was the wheel that caused the big grief and where the problem started, so would leap in. Your thoughts please???
Best and many thanks Jon
All good news Jon
It is incredible easy to mess up the gcode settings and cause issues and i think that's what happened with your "stops at 2mm"
It can be quite tricky to tune the exposure times for a specific resin
What i would suggest is that you start out with 0.050 layers which is typical for resin printers and do some test prints to make sure its all working fine again
If youre happy with the results at 0.050 then go finer in increments, much like FDM printing in as much as big leaps sound a good idea time wise but when things dont turn out as expected you can get lost with what went wrong.
That is somewhat "todays prediction of the obvious" but valid never the less
Likewise choose your test model carefully. Its pointless starting with an intricate minature for example ( unless your very lucky and your settings are spot on) Best start with something that will let you interpret at least the cure times
One of my favorites is >> https://www.dropbox.com/s/l62mzl9nf5raf … x.stl?dl=0
Im not 100% sure about the "early" turn on of the LED but i know it can take at least 1 second for them to reach full brightness so maybe that's what that is all about.
It makes sense to have the LED at full brightness before exposing the frame. other wise setting the cure times would be tricky as you'd never be quite sure of the level of brightness during the first second or so.
It's probably set in firmware somehow/ somewhere but without your source Marlin to investigate, I wouldn't know where to start.
Cheers
Phil
PS we havent talked about your slicer but i suggest Chitubox or Lychee slicer
Last edited by bigfilsing (2021-02-17 13:32:41)
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1.
All good news Jon
It is incredible easy to mess up the gcode settings and cause issues and i think that's what happened with your "stops at 2mm"
Oh, yes. Hence why I keep a record and also put up on here a blog asking for input from others. I got a big fat ZERO response. :-)
2.
It can be quite tricky to tune the exposure times for a specific resin
What i would suggest is that you start out with 0.050 layers which is typical for resin printers and do some test prints to make sure its all working fine again
If youre happy with the results at 0.050 then go finer in increments, much like FDM printing in as much as big leaps sound a good idea time wise but when things dont turn out as expected you can get lost with what went wrong.
That is somewhat "todays prediction of the obvious" but valid never the less
Likewise choose your test model carefully. Its pointless starting with an intricate minature for example ( unless your very lucky and your settings are spot on) Best start with something that will let you interpret at least the cure times
One of my favorites is >> https://www.dropbox.com/s/l62mzl9nf5raf … x.stl?dl=0
I'm pretty good at doing the resin cal stuff TBH. As nothing has actually changed in the exposure looking at the codes etc I do not see any real need to do any cal tests. I wanted to do the larger print only because it will check the 2mm problem. It just means a longer wait for the results, though I can take a peek after a few hours anyway. I'll then do a double check on detail/resin cal after to ensure it is at its best setting.
I have about 20 different test models to choose from. Many are like the one you sent, flat with raised bits. I shall use it to kick-off as it is a quick model being so low. I have my favourite test model. It is a 10mm cube with slots and things, so has the usual but the slots are the one thing that really does show off the calibration. You can see my how-to and model here.
HERE
I think it needs a newer version as the resolution it goes down to is not as fine as I am now doing. I believe it is Russian in origin.
3.
Im not 100% sure about the "early" turn on of the LED but i know it can take at least 1 second for them to reach full brightness so maybe that's what that is all about.
It makes sense to have the LED at full brightness before exposing the frame. other wise setting the cure times would be tricky as you'd never be quite sure of the level of brightness during the first second or so.
It's probably set in firmware somehow/ somewhere but without your source Marlin to investigate, I wouldn't know where to start.
Yup, that makes some sense and didn't expect it to be changeable. No worries.
4.
Cheers
Phil
PS we havent talked about your slicer but i suggest Chitubox or Lychee slicer
Yup, ChatuBox and before that and still love is CWS and CWX which I always got great results and were so simple. Sadly they make CWS files for D7s which I do not think work on the nano. That said I only create the supports and then import the model and the nano does the slicing. Don't know how to import a presliced model OR how I could use my USB... The D& I put the sliced model on the SDCard and put it in the printed and just selected from the menu and hey ho off we went. Meant could use the faster PC to slice and manipulate and the printer could be working away in the background.
5. Last bit. I think I have a new problem. The build plate: As I was cleaning and tidying up I noticed a small speck on the top of one of the guides. I realised that it was a tiny ball bearing. I then looked inside the guide tubes and noticed it has small rows of tiny ball bearings. I think I have a problem, Huston... See photo of where I mean... Can't see inside, but this is the offending item. I need new guides, assuming I can get them out. Removed one split ring but it is still not happy coming out, but from where can I buy a replacement????
It NEVER rains!
Last edited by Jonners59 (2021-02-17 13:59:31)
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Yeah thats not good . It may have even been why your Z axis was jamming up although unlikely it would occur at the same location.
Those bearings are cheap to replace thou. You might also consider POMA or IGUS bushes as there is little if any radial load on them.
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